2021 Bienvenues Bâtard Montrachet Grand Cru La Vougeraie

22.5 hl/ha. Tasted ahead of the Bâtard this year because of finesse as opposed to weight, and some younger vines from 2014 have been included for the first time. Fine pale primrose, a slightly oaky nose, but also a feeling of elegance beneath. Very suave, very fine balance, again showing plenty of oak, but a lovely elegance at the finish. Medium persistence.

This is a 180-degree turn in character from the more voluptuous Bâtard-Montrachet. It delivers a leaner structure with chiseled acidity accenting the mid-weight but wellconcentrated fruit. Yellow plums, pomelo and guava are dusted with lemon butter and flinty minerality. There is terrific energy in the glass.

The 2021 Bienvenues-Bâtard-Montrachet Grand Cru is slightly more oxidative in style compared to the Bâtard-Montrachet, with grilled walnut and a subtle flor-like scent emerging with time. The palate is balanced with a vibrant opening. It has a little more horsepower than the Bâtard-Montrachet and a spicier finish. This gains intensity in the glass and does eventually overtake the Bâtard.

(from a .46 ha holding). Pretty notes of honeysuckle and a mix of citrus and white orchard fruit, especially pear, are trimmed in just enough wood to notice. The citrus character continues onto the rich, concentrated and almost painfully intense medium weight flavors that conclude in a bone-dry, lengthy and beautifully balanced finale. This is also quite tightly coiled and a wine that will need all of a decade to reach its peak.