2021 Batard Montrachet Grand Cru La Vougeraie

Fine mid yellow. A more four-square delivery on the nose, still with a good oak content. A concentration of white fruit with citrus notes, certainly more power than the Bienvenues-Bâtard, perhaps less finesse, and does not dig as deep as some – but persistent, and a fine example.

This is a vinous, succulent Bâtard that comes from three parcels: two on the Chassagne side and one on the northern end. Highly-defined acidity twirls around the medium body laced with vanilla and baking spice. Smashed apple and pear flavors pull through the long, drizzlesoft finish. It is not as powerful as the domaine's Bâtards from the warmer vintages but it is every bit as engaging.

The 2021 Bâtard-Montrachet Grand Cru comes from three plots. It takes time to unfurl on the nose, eventually offering citrus fruit, popcorn and hints of Mirabelle. The palate is balanced with an attractive, slightly waxy texture. It shows fine depth with the mineralité eventually surfacing with aeration. Afford this three or four years in bottle.

(from a .38 ha holding divided into 3 parcels, two of which are on the Chassagne side and the remainder on the Puligny side of the divide). A discreet hint of the exotic is present on the otherwise fresh, cool and admirably pure floral, green fruit and spice scents that are set off by a discreet application of oak. The palate impression of the broadshouldered flavors is restrained if punchy before really fanning out on the firm, balanced, bone-dry and ever-so-slightly austere finale where a touch of bitter zest slowly appears. This is quite linear at present and a wine that is clearly going to need extended patience.