2018 Riesling Langenmorgen Grand Cru Pfalz Dr. Bürklin-Wolf

Here’s another Einzellage that it’s a shame Bürklin-Wolf owns only a tiny sliver of, because the results are nearly always memorable. A wind-sheltered southeastern exposure and soils high in active calcaire conduce to moderate must weights and animating acid retention. Lime, ginger, white peach and sweet corn on the nose combine to succulent, brightly juicy and zesty effect on a polished, palpably dense palate that comes off as infused with chalk, crushed stone and mouthwatering mineral salts. The long finish epitomizes this wine’s remarkable combination of richness with vibrant animation. (It was due to be bottled near the end of 2019 or early in 2020, a month or two after I last tasted it.)