2017 Pouilly-Vinzelles Les Quarts La Soufrandière

(from a 2 ha holding of vines between 45 and 80 years of age). Fermentation aromas. The medium- bodied flavors possess a lovely sense of energy and particularly so in the context of the 2018 vintage, all wrapped in an overtly stony, clean, dry and precise finish. This is potentially excellent. (90- 92)/2024+

The 2017 Pouilly- Vinzelles Les Quarts is excellent, unwinding in the glass with a complex bouquet of Anjou pear, crisp green apple, mint and orange zest. On the palate, the wine is medium to full-bodied, satiny and layered, with a caressing attack, excellent depth at the core, lively acids and a long, precise finish.

The 2016 Pouilly-Vinzelles Climat Les Quarts comes from 40 to 85-year old vines in the southeast, facing Les Quarts vineyard. Jean-Philippe Bret told me that it matured for 11 months in used oak barrels, then racked and blended in tank with the lees for another 6 months. It has a wonderful, engaging bouquet lent character by a light marine influence, hints of seaweed or maybe mudflats in the background. This clearly gains intensity with aeration and develops more mineralité. The palate is fresh and vigorous, perfect in terms of acidity with traces of almond flakes and praline that impart a sweetness that counterbalances its nervosité. This comes highly recommended. Tasted at Field, Morris & Verdin's annual tasting in London.

This is broad, rich and powerful, with a complement of new oak detail shading the peach, apple and mineral flavors. There is a citrus underpinning as this turns focused on the lingering aftertaste.