2017 Criots-Bâtard-Montrachet Grand Cru Blain-Gagnard

Pale colour, backward nose with a touch of sulphur. Then some elegance of fruit, very much white fruit, a bit more than middleweight. This is a vineyard which suffers if picked too ripe. The finish has plenty of detail and a lively, reductive freshness at the back. The fruit is marginally exotic but in balance. Tasted: October 2018.

(from 3 separate parcels that aggregate only .2 ha). There is a whisper of exoticism to the super-fresh and spicy white peach and yellow orchard fruit aromas that are trimmed in subtle mandarin orange nuances. The moderately powerful broad- shouldered flavors display fine richness as well as an attractive palate impression while delivering a mouth coating and solidly long finish. While this is not especially dense and will need to add depth, I like the delivery and in particular the lingering and refreshingly dry backend.

The lime blossom, citronella, vanilla and pastry flavors are fused to a gossamer texture and linear profile in this white. The clean lines and purity make for overall harmony, while the finish evokes lemon cream, vanilla and floral notes. Offers a long, minerally aftertaste.

The 2017 Criots-Bâtard-Montrachet Grand Cru has a light stony bouquet with orchard fruit and light citrus aromas, gaining some intensity with aeration but never fully letting go. The palate is well balanced with fine depth and presence, and quite saline, especially toward the impressively persistent finish. Yes, this is very primal and sultry at the moment, though it should age with style. Tasted blind at the annual Burgfest tasting in Savigny-lès-Beaune.