2017 Condrieu La Doriane Guigal

The concentration of fruit in this wine is always staggering. Such impressive depth and power. Deeply ripe, rich, apricot and peach aromas with a citrus, grapefruit edge and plenty of hazelnut oak. The palate is densely flavored, super-long and packed with ripe mangoes, apricots and peaches. Immaculate. Drink or hold.

Bottled at the end of June and brought up in new barrels, the blockbuster 2017 Condrieu La Doriane is up there with the crème de la crème, and just might be the wine of the vintage in the region. Stunning notes of buttered peach, crème brûlée, white flowers, and honeysuckle all literally soar from the glass. Deep, rich, medium to full-bodied and powerful, like the base cuvée, it stays incredibly pure and elegant. Drink bottles over the coming 4-5 years. Don't miss it.

Slightly more forward and flamboyant than the more classically structured 2016, the 2017 Condrieu la Doriane is full-bodied, plush and opulent, loaded with flowers, melons and apricots. Yes, the oak is noticeable, but it adds a relatively restrained note of toasted almonds, serving to focus and lift the waves of succulent fruit. I'd drink this silky-textured beauty over the next few years, while it's still as showy as can be.

Intense, with a honeyed edge, this maintains drive throughout, featuring intense apricot, nectarine and peach fruit flavors, lined with mouthwatering bitter orange and anise notes. The long, unctuous finish has serious cut to match. Drink now through 2025. 1,667 cases made, 500 cases imported. - JM

Limpid yellow. White peach, melon, smoky minerals and exotic flowers on the intensely perfumed nose, which picks up a hint of vanilla as the wine stretches out. Juicy and deeply concentrated, offering palate-staining orchard and pit fruit nectar, orange zest and honeysuckle flavors that are lifted and sharpened by a smoky mineral quality. Seamless and subtly sweet on the impressively persistent finish, which repeats the pit fruit and floral notes.

La Doriane 2017 er mere fadpræget, men langt fra domineret af træ. Blot krydret af dild under den røgede og rige næse med honningmelon. Smagen var magtfuld, vildt intens og koncentreret med den næsten obligatoriske pæreskal og strejf af grappa i eftersmagen. Man drikker magi, for på trods af de svulmende former, er der friskhed og stenet mineralitet.