2015 Charmes-Chambertin Grand Cru Les Mazoyères La Vougeraie

Plein et riche mais équilibré par cette perception de vendange entière, même si le volume et l'amplitude priment. Un vrai vin hédoniste.

These are the oldest vines at the domaine, a 0.73-hectare plot planted in 1902 and located entirely in Charmes-Mazoyères. Yields were low at 20 hectolitres per hectare, but this still has impressive elegance and balance, with sweet, summer pudding flavours, a chalky undertone and delicate oak integration. 2019- 28 .

Here the densely fruited nose is slightly riper than that of the Clos de Vougeot with plenty of earth influence to the cassis and plum scents. The rich, full-bodied, dense and imposingly-scaled flavors still manage to retain a moderately refined mouthfeel in that it's not overtly rustic, all wrapped in a dusty, palate coating and solidly long finish where a touch of minerality appears. I like the sense of proportion and delivery and while this is certainly a big wine, there is plenty of verve and detail and overall, this should age well and it will need at least 8 to 10 years. Drink 2027+

The 2015 Charmes-Chambertin Les Mazoyeres Grand Cru comes from vines planted way back in 1902. It has a very succinct bouquet, almost understated at first (atypically for this grand Cru) then builds with vivacious Morello cherry, redcurrant and wild strawberry scents struck through with fine mineralité and tension. The palate is medium-bodied with a slightly candied opening, a little more savory than I was expecting, hints of cooked meat percolating through the red and black fruit with veins of marmalade and Satsuma pith towards the finish. It felt quite mercurial, constantly changing in my glass, fortunately gaining more and more cohesion. Intriguing!

Reticent, brooding aromas of kirsch and dark berries. Supple but a bit youthfully brooding in the middle palate, with blackberry, black cherry and licorice flavors coming across as a bit stunted today. Can't quite match the Bonnes-Mares for inner-mouth energy or detail, but at a crop level of 25 hectoliters per hectare, this is impressively concentrated. The darker fruit character carries through on the long finish. Aeration brought increased sweetness, spice character and pliancy, suggesting that this wine will enjoy a graceful evolution in bottle.