2004 Gewurztraminer Vendanges Tardives Weinbach

Combining pickings from the Altenbourg and the Clos des Capucins itself, Weinbach's 2004 Gewurztraminer Vendange Tardive smells of roses, celery seed, brown spices, and honey. Sultry and rich in the mouth and exuding peach preserves and brown spices, this introduces pecan bittersweet toastiness and an unexpectedly saline, savory, invigorating mineral note in a long finish that helps balance its sweetness. Admirably well-balanced, this should be worth following for at least 10-12 years, although it would be hard to resist pulling a cork now. The dynamic trio of Fallers continues to bottle some of France's (hardly just Alsace's) richest and most flamboyant wines. Beginning with 2005, all of their vineyards are being biodynamically farmed. Laurence Faller finds their 2005s in general "more focused and clear" (this was especially true of Riesling) despite their often prominent botrytis component, and the 2004s richer.

On the dry side, this is powerful, showing apricot, rose and grapefruit aromas and flavors, with a vibrant structure. Finishes dry, with a white pepper note. Give it a few years and pair with Müenster cheese. Drink now through 2015.