2017 Puligny-Montrachet 1. Cru Les Referts Domaine Jacques Carillon

Clear mid lemon yellow. A full dense nose with class, broadening with time in the glass. Balanced on the palate, the oak adds a biscuity touch, good acidity, a wine which is still finding its way towards its eventual destination.

Jacques Carillon's 2017 Puligny-Montrachet 1er Cru Les Réferts is a brilliant young wine. Unfurling in the glass with scents of green apple, white flowers, pastry cream, citrus zest and crushed chalk, it's medium to full-bodied, chiseled and tensile, with impressive depth and mid-palate volume, concluding with a long and searingly mineral finish. This will demand the most patience of Carillon's premiers crus, but it is also the finest of the four.

The 2017 Puligny-Montachet Les Referts 1er Cru has a bouquet similar to the Les Perrières, featuring apple blossom and crushed limestone scents, very minerally and almost austere in style. The palate is where it's all happening: intense green apple notes and touches of stem ginger, kiwi fruit and spice emerging toward a finish that fans out gloriously. This will give long-term pleasure. 2022 - 2038 .

(45+ year old vines). Somewhat surprisingly, this is aromatically quite similar to the Perrieres though with perhaps just a touch more floral influence. The succulent, even juicy, medium-bodied flavors possess both fine punch but also a lovely seductive texture, all wrapped in a linear and tension-filled finish that is presently youthfully austere. Other than the Bienvenues, this is the firmest wine in the range and will need at least some patience. 93/2029+