2015 Puligny-Montrachet 1. Cru Les Referts Domaine Jacques Carillon

Clear bright fresh colour and some lively fruit to go with it. Perhaps a little fruit salad in style but at least there is vibrancy. Good length, does what it should but not very typical.

This old vine cuvée is particularly impressive in the tricky conditions (for white wines) of 2015. It's quite a full flavoured wine, with some peachy sweetness, a hint of aniseed and macadamia nuts, good concentration and a dusting of vanilla-scented oak. 2017-22 .

This is aromatically quite cool and restrained with its layered and very pretty array of acacia blossom, spice, citrus zest and honeysuckle. There is excellent richness to the full-bodied yet refined and sappy flavors that possess terrific depth on the impressively persistent finish. This is succulent yet altogether serious and should amply reward mid-term cellaring. In a word, lovely.

The 2015 Puligny-Montrachet 1er Cru Les Referts was expressive and generous on the nose: lime cordial and honeysuckle wrapped in just the right amount of reduction not to impede the fruit. The palate is fresh and vibrant on the entry with a keen thread of acidity. There is palpable energy in this Les Referts that is manifested mostly on the sorbet- like, mineral-driven finish. What an effervescent Les Referts that should handsomely repay 2-3 years in the cellar. This would actually be my pick over the Les Perrières and perhaps that is why Jaques poured his Les Referts after and not before.

(13.8% alcohol, with 4 grams acidity): Sexy, complex aromas of peach, ripe apricot, smoky minerality and musky hazelnut; I might have guessed Meursault. An alluring impression of sucrosité is nicely supported by firm minerality. Fine-grained, concentrated premier cru with lovely length and solid finishing acidity and minerality. Still a bit youthfully aggressive, though, and in need of aging, but ultimately a rich, Meursault style of Puligny (Carillon's vines are right next to Meursault Charmes.) Drinking windows: 2020-2027 .