2015 Châteauneuf-du-Pape Cuvée des Cadettes Ch La Nerthe

Organic, no destemming, fermented in tronconic vats then matured for 12 months in 80% new and 20% old oak barriques. The oak, unsurprisingly, is very present on the nose at this early stage. But crucially it works well on the palate, with no drying effect. Spicy plum and prune, with star anise and clove. For an oaked style of Châteauneuf, this is consistently one of the best. 2021-2033.

Made from close to equal parts Grenache, Syrah and Mourvèdre aged in 80% new barrels, the 2015 Châteauneuf-du-Pape Les Cadettes offers more black raspberry, vanilla bean, cured meats, and spice, as well as medium to full-bodied richness, solid purity, nicely integrated acidity and outstanding length. This is a fresh, classic release from this estate that should be at its best from 2020-2030. I continue to find the wines from Chateau la Nerthe outstanding, however, the shift towards leaner and leaner wines is troubling.

Deeper in color and made from close to an even split of Grenache, Mourvèdre and Syrah, the 2015 Châteauneuf du Pape Les Cadettes shows the normal modern slant in its blackcurrants, cassis, crushed flowers and sweet barrique aromas and flavors. Medium to full-bodied, with polished tannin and rock-solid balance, it should require 3-4 years of cellaring and keep for a decade after that. Note, the elevage here is always mostly in new barrels, with small part in very old smaller barrels.

Lurid magenta. Expansive aromas of fresh boysenberry, black raspberry, incense and spicecake. Sweet, seamless and concentrated on the palate, offering intense dark fruit liqueur and lavender pastille flavors and suggestions of licorice and vanilla that build with air. In a generous style, but there's more than adequate structure to this wine as well. Silky, even tannins add shape to the energetic finish, which hangs on with outstanding tenacity.

A ripe, lush style, with warm and inviting plum, fig and boysenberry confiture notes gliding through. Offers a beautiful polished feel, with suave anise and black tea flavors filling in on the finish while the fruit just sails through. Relies primarily on fruit, and you can't blame it for that. Drink now through 2030. 1,050 cases made.-JM