2015 Chambertin Grand Cru Henri Boillot

Despite the nose being notably ripe it is both highly restrained and brooding as it requires considerable swirling to liberate the dark currant liqueur, plum, wet stone, spice and game scents. Somewhat counterintuitively, there is a slightly finer mouth feel to the more mineral-driven if somewhat less powerful medium weight plus flavors that possess a genuinely marvelous mouth feel, all wrapped in a backward but not really austere finale. That said, this is very clearly built-to-age and is likely to require every bit of 20 years before it finally reaches its apogee. Like the Clos de Bèze, this is a buy and forget wine. /2033+ .

Dark red with ruby tones. Cooler and more medicinal on the nose than the Clos de Bèze, showing a eucalyptus note to the black cherry and boysenberry aromas. Then densely packed, highly concentrated and fine-grained, enlivened by savory crushed-stone minerality. Shows the thickness and power of Chambertin but no excess weight. (Still, Guillaume Boillot prefers the Clos de Bèze today for its delicacy, noting that both wines received the same 100% new oak and full destemming, "so the only difference is terroir.") A bit clenched on the finish, showing firm, building tannins.