2014 Cusumano Alta Mora Guardiola Etna Rosso

The crystal-clear nose of jasmine, slate, quartz, wild strawberries, blueberries and tons of orange rind, not to mention chocolate shavings and walnuts, is stunning. The full-bodied palate is expansive and fruit-forward yet so minerally and uplifted by a fresh line of acidity that culminates in a long finish. Tight and refined in terms of tannin texture. So good now but better in 2019.

The 2014 Etna Rosso Guardiola is also 100% Nerello Mascalese yet was brought up in barrels. Slightly deeper in color than the base Etna Rosso, it has a gorgeous bouquet of black cherries, currants, dried earth, licorice and a hint of chocolate. Deep, medium-bodied, beautifully concentrated, yet also light and graceful, with impeccable balance and fine tannin, it should keep for 10-15 years.

The 2014 Etna Rosso Guardiola is a wine of unique beauty and character. Having seen this stunning vineyard in person and climbed its steep ascent on the flank of the volcano, I am immediately reminded of the warm smells that come from these sun-scorched soils and the wild herbal notes that come off the scrub brush that grows in this harsh, otherworldly environment. This wine offers an immediate sense of place. The bouquet is elegant, almost ephemeral at first. It grows exponentially in intensity and complexity as the wine takes on more air in the glass. Give it the time it merits. Tangy acidity and sour cherry keep the palate very much alive. Congratulations to Cusumano of Alta Mora for this authentic taste of Etna inspiration. Only 5,310 bottles were made. Fruit comes from a three-hectare vineyard with 120-year-old vines. 2018 - 2035.