2019 Puligny-Montrachet 1. Cru Clos Mouchere Henri Boillot Magnum

The 2019 Puligny-Montrachet 1er Cru Clos de la Mouchère was showing superbly, unfurling in the glass with scents of pear, citrus oil, orange blossom, dried white flowers, toasted nuts and iodine. Medium to full-bodied, layered and multidimensional, it's concentrated and textural, with tangy acids, chalky extract and a long, saline finish.

The Clos de la Mouchère is a domaine monopole of nearly 4ha. The vines date to before the Second World War and have not been replanted since. It is located midslope and consistently provides a lovely wine of exquisite balance and elegance. Here the accent is on ripe apple, spice and buttery aromas. The texture is broad and rich, but superbly elegant and well balanced. The finesse of the results in such a warm year are reassuring.

(from 60+ year old vines and the vineyard is a whopping 4 ha monopole within Perrières). In contrast to the nose of the Pucelles, here it’s elegant, pure and airy with its layered aromas of essence of apple, pear and acacia blossom. There is excellent volume and mid-palate density to the mouth coating and caressing middle weight flavors that culminate in a lemony finish that is hugely long if perhaps not quite as crisp. This too is very stylish and a wine that should age gracefully for years. 95/2031+

Boillot er så pavestolt over monopol-1. cru’en Clos de la Mouchère, at han behandler den som en grand cru (og tager en pris derefter). Det er en ganske magtfuld og megadrøj vin med 14,5 %, som man dog ikke mærker så meget til, eftersom kroppen er holdt stramt på plads af et solidt korset af syre og mineralitet. Giv den fem-ti år på langs, at knappe den op nu, ville være et barnemord.