2017 Pommard 1. Cru Les Rugiens Henri Boillot

from equally sized parcels in both Rugiens Hauts and Bas that measure ~1 ha). A super-fresh if restrained nose speaks of ripe aromas of poached plum, violet and black cherry. The highly energetic and intensely mineral-driven middle weight plus flavors are at once tautly muscular and precise while the youthfully austere finish is shaped by quite fine-grained tannins. Like all examples of Rugiens worth of their name, this is built-to-age and will need it. 93/2029+

The 2017 Pommard 1er Cru Les Rugiens is quite serious and reserved, both in the context of Boillot's range and in the context of the vintage. Offering up aromas of plums, cassis, warm spices and toasty new oak, it's medium to full-bodied, dense and firm, with good concentration, fine-grained but chewy structuring tannins and a long finish.

The 2017 Pommard Les Rugiens 1er Cru, which like the Volnay Caillerets is the other Premier Cru that has undergone intégrale vinification for the first time, is aged 100% in new oak. It has an intense bouquet, although like the Caillerets, I would have liked more Pommard typicity to break the surface of that carapace of new oak. The palate is medium-bodied with grippy tannin, a little woody at the moment, a fine bead of acidity but the finish needs more personality. Let's see how this ages and whether there is improvement - I will be cautious for now.