2016 Volnay Champans 1. Cru Marquis d'Angerville Magnum

Long rows, with just the lower part suffering from the frost, on deeper clay soil at the bottom, poorer soil above. Medium crimson colour, interesting complex aromatics with both fruit and flowers. Some more tannin here, interesting breadth of flavour and length.

Firmer and more backward than the other d'Angerville Premiers Crus in 2016, this has more clay in the soils, but is not as open as the 2015 was at this early stage of its development. Serious and sappy, with dense plum and black cherry fruit and a backbone of tannin and meaty reduction. 2024-30 .

(from a huge 3.98 ha parcel). A fresh yet notably ripe nose is composed by liqueur-like aromas of plum, spice and earth. The delicious, refined and once again strikingly pure flavors are a bit less muscular and mineraldriven than those of the Taillepieds yet the tannic spine shaping the lingering if ever- so-slightly warm finish is just as firm. This is going to require at least moderate patience before it begins to be approachable. 2028+ .

In contrast to the precocious 2017, the 2016 Volnay 1er Cru Les Champans is tight-knit and reserved and will demand patience. Offering up aromas of plums, cherries, violets, dark chocolate and forest floor, the wine is, medium to full-bodied, chewy and firm, with lovely depth at the core but an imposing, muscular chassis of fine-grained tannin that asserts itself on the finish. I have no concerns about the balance of this Champans, but readers should plan on waiting at least a dozen years before pulling corks. 2028 - 2065.

(the entire bottom of this vineyard was fried by frost, according to régisseur François Duvivier): Bright, dark red-ruby. Medicinal blueberry and licorice aromas are lifted by a minty high note; less showy and more restrained on the nose than the Taillepieds and Caillerets today. Then wonderfully dense, primary and pure on the palate, but more vertical and less opulent than the Taillepieds and Caillerets. Strong mineral energy accentuates the impression of vibrancy. A bit less open to inspection today owing to its firm tannic spine.

Pure and intense, featuring cherry, black currant and violet aromas and flavors, this red is seductive and approachable despite its youth. The solid structure is seamlessly integrated and bodes well for future development. Shows terrific harmony and expression. Best from 2023 through 2042.