2014 Volnay Champans 1. Cru Marquis d'Angerville Magnum

Lightish crimson. LIfted and fragrant with delicious red cherry fruit, and a touch of oak spice. The fruit sings from the glass. That delicious scent continues on the palate to the very end. Lightish, super-elegant and so fragrant. I am so taken up with the fragrance that I barely notice the structure and depth - but the freshness and fine structure are all in place for the future. Haunting fragrance even when you leave the glass behind. Very long. Extreme subtlety. Drink 2020-2032

Guillaume d'Angerville owns four out of the 11 hectares of Champans, and it's often one of the domaine's best wines. It's a fleshier wine than Cailleret or Taillepieds, with broader shoulders and more tannin, too, but the same underlying acidity and focus. 2018-27 .

Once again there is a deft touch of wood apparent on the restrained, cool and pretty array of red berry, earth and softly spice-inflected nose. The wonderfully refined, layered and sleek middle weight flavors possess a polished mouth feel while delivering outstanding length on the moderately austere and dusty finale. Like the Taillepieds this is quite firm and will need at least 6 to 8 years of cellaring before it will be approachable. Patience required.

The 2014 Volnay 1er Cru Champans has a more pointed and angular nose at the moment when compared with the Taillepieds. It is probably the most primal of the Volnay, black cherry and cassis fruit suffused with tangible mineralité, but it needs to be knitted together during the remainder of its élevage. The palate is very well balanced, the wood component again needing time to enmesh, but there is good substance here -- even if I prefer the elegance of the Caillerets on the finish (at the moment).

Full red. Aromas of dark cherry, smoky minerals and sexy soil tones. Very sweet and broad on entry, then suave and nicely delineated in the mid-palate, displaying complex saline soil tones and cherry and dark berry fruit flavors. This savory Volnay finishes with building toothcoating tannins and terrific chocolatey length. Needs time, but this wine strikes me as more harmonious than the excellent 2013 version was at the same stage.