2013 Volnay 1. Cru Les Caillerets Henri Boillot

(from a .60 ha parcel). A more restrained nose only grudgingly reveals its aromas of black pinot fruit, cinnamon, anise, exotic tea and cassis nuances. There is a beguiling texture to the energetic and overtly mineral driven medium weight flavors that also display moderate austerity on the lingering finish that isn't dry though there is a touch of asperity to it. My score assumes that this will eventually dissipate though it may require a few years first.

The 2013 Volnay 1er Cru Caillerets, which sees 50% new wood, has a floral, slightly candied bouquet with orange-sorbet scents infusing the mixture of red and black fruit. The palate is medium-bodied with crisp tannins, quite fine and tense, with a precise finish that neatly carries the oak. This is probably the best of the Volnay '13 from the domaine this year.

Healthy dark red. Very reticent but pure aromas of blueberry, spices, licorice and minerals, plus a touch of chocolate. Quite closed and youthfully high- pitched, offering chewy blackberry and blueberry flavors supported by a firm tannic spine. This very backward wine, a bit sullen today, will need time in bottle to absorb its structure and become more pliant. The crop level here was just 18 hectoliters per hectare, according to Guillaume Boillot.