2011 Volnay Clos des Ducs 1. Cru Marquis d'Angerville

(a monopole that measures 2.15 ha). An incredibly perfumed, airy and cool nose speaks of anise, essence of red berry fruit, stone and floral hints. There is a distinctly textured mouth feel to the restrained and beautifully well-detailed and intensely mineral-driven flavors that possess a highly refreshing mouth feel, all wrapped in a youthfully austere, restrained and delicious finish. A lovely and very understated effort that should also reward mid-term cellaring. 2021+ .

Firm, intense, raspberry nose that is pure and focused. Medium-bodied, sleek and fresh, with sweet tannins, this has intensity and purity rather than weight. Elegant and taut, youthful and long. Drink 2015-2030.

Palish bright red. Highly perfumed nose combines redcurrant, cherry, smoky minerals and faded flowers, complicated by earth and caramel nuances. Taut and juicy in the mouth, with a tightly coiled spring of pungent minerality energizing the youthful flavors of ripe cherry, redcurrant, smoke and spices. Much less creamy than the Champans, with a saline calcaire element giving the mid-palate uncanny detail. Finishes sweet, subtle and long, with utterly seamless, fine-grained tannins. With its firm tannins and strong minerality, this should make a great dinner companion--but give it at least six or seven years in the cellar.

The 2011 Volnay Clos des Ducs 1er Cru is showing extremely well. It is not the deepest in color and the bouquet demands some encouragement, but gradually reveals enticing smoke- infused red fruit, Earl Grey and earthy scents. Conservative and classic in style but very compelling. The palate is medium-bodied with an appealing, fleshy opening. There is a lovely suppleness to this Clos des Ducs with a persistent and seamless finish that flirts with ferrous-like notes on the aftertaste. Wonderful. Tasted at the annual Marquis d'Angerville tasting in London. 2019 - 2040 .