2023 Puligny-Montrachet 1. Cru Clos Mouchere Henri Boillot

A fuller yellow here, and an extra degree of completeness, more weight and almost all the class. The oak is still at 50% new and is very well integrated. Gorgeously rich, with little fruits dancing through a meadow. Once again, I do see the magic of this. Henri was strongly advised by his father to look after “Madame de la Mouchère”.

(from 60+ year old vines and the vineyard is a whopping 4 ha monopole within Perrières). This is even cooler and more restrained as the nose only grudgingly reveals its aromas of mineral reduction, green apple, spice, acacia blossom and a deft touch of wood. The gorgeously textured medium weight flavors brim with both minerality and sappy dry extract that buffers the youthfully austere and even more persistent finish. This too is very classy and a classic Clos de la Mouchère of grace and poise. If you can find it, buy it.

The 2023 Puligny-Montrachet Clos de la Mouchère 1er Cru is another very classy wine. Vertical in feel, the 2023 is super-bright from the outset. White pepper, flowers, mint, sage and pear reinforce that impression. Readers will find an airy, deceptively mid-weight Puligny that possesses remarkable depth.

TESTVINDER: Det er langt fra første årgang, jeg tester denne monumentale Puligny fra Boillot, som laves i pæne mængder. Som sædvanlig af grand cru kvalitet, selvom der »kun« er tale om 1. cru: Næsen er let ristet, hvilket skyldes reduktion (underskud af ilt). Munden er mega intens og drøj uden at være tung. Syren er monumental og forlænger smagen, som varer i oceaner af tid.