Bollinger Champagne PNTX20

Denne klassiske Champagne er fra øverste hylde og absolut enestående - “PNTX” står for “Pinot Noir Tauxières”, da den er lavet på 100% Pinot Noir - altså en “Blanc de Noirs”, som er ret unik for netop Bollinger. Tauxières er området, hvor druerne kommer fra. Den kaldes den “3. perle", da den har mere end 50% vin fra bl.a. 2008 og 2012. Så reelt et blend. Den byder på duft af citrus, lime, hvide blomster, fersken og et lille hint af flint. I munden er den rund, kompleks, dyb og har en utrolig flot dybde og elegant friskhed over sig - imponerende flot Champagne.

Very vinous. Captivating aromas of subtle strawberries, flint, gunmetal and crushed stones. Medium-bodied with beautiful purity and length, this has ultrafine bubbles that blend in nicely and go on for minutes. Real clarity. 2020 base vintage with 25% reserve wines. No barrel fermentation. All pinot noir. Dosage 8 g/L.

5,5 ud af 6 STJERNER - #2 "Årets Nytårschampagne" 2025 - Anmeldt til 1400 kr. - "Ikke mange af de klassiske store huse fandt vej til toppen, men undtagelsen var Bollinger, som ganske enkelt blæste mig bagover med dette mesterværk af en champagne på ren pinot noir. Den smukke gyldne farve var allerede et godt tegn for de af os, der elsker fyldig champagne, og jeg skal love for, at den leverede. Alene næsen var ren sensorisk forkælelse med noter af citron, grape, lime og citrongræs. Ved første tår tabte jeg nærmest kæben over den koncentration og power, denne vin havde at byde på. Den var krydret og pirrende intens, så man lige måtte gribe efter vejret. Der var noter af svampe, hasselnødder og banan, en imponerende frugtsødme (ikke at forveksle med sødme relateret til sukkerindholdet) og en herlig salt mineralitet, der sad i munden meget længe. En kompleks champagne til feinschmeckeren, der tager sig tid til virkelig at nyde det, der bliver skænket i glasset. Fuld plade herfra."

For this exciting and explosive edition of PN, Bollinger once again chose fine, but unknown Tauxières as the starting point and dominant together with a smaller part of Aÿ and Avenay. 2020 is the base vintage with 48% of the cuvée. 52% reserve wines from magnum and steel tank with 2008 and 2012 as the oldest components to 25% of the whole. And finally a moderate dosage of 8 grams. Beautiful light golden color and an explosive and intense, now characteristic aroma of the reserve wines on magnum. So a kind of Bollinger without barrels in just that part. The barrel notes are clearer in the mouth where the nuts appear together with a small whisper of the forest. Otherwise, I mostly find apricot jam and white peaches in the fruity part together with geranium and a very flinty mineral finish.

Bolinger's PN series has only gained in popularity, showcasing the house's expertise with Pinot Noir. For the latest edition, the house has reverted to the lesser-known Pinot Noir premier cru of Tauxières in a cool pocket of the southern face of the Montagne de Reims, comprised once more of just under half of the base year plus reserves from 2019 and 2018, and reserves from 2012 and 2008 aged in magnum. At first it's full of the exuberant pink-tinged fruit of the ultra-ripe, hot season; juicy raspberry and sweet apricots, rounded and approachable. Both the cool, chalky restraint of the village and the added shot of smoky, charry, honeyed richness of the reserve wine – not to mention the acid focus of the 2008 and 2012 – elevate it dramatically, leaving the wine with no lack of drive and refreshment factor. This is another highly imaginative, rewarding release, a little less mineral and restrained than the PN VZ 19, yet just as layered.

An enticing waft of fragrant spices draws you into the glass, where ripe and juicy black cherry and currant fruit is underscored by a clean swathe of underlying salinity. Details of pickled ginger, crystallized honey, biscuit and white blossoms expand nicely on the plush mousse, which is raw silk–like in feel. This is rich and expressive, with good depth, yet its chiseled acidity provides fine definition throughout. Mouthwatering finish. Disgorged February 2025.