2023 Corton Charlemagne Grand Cru Domaine Pierre Vincent

The inaugural release of the top wine from the new Domaine Pierre Vincent is nothing short of stunning, with immense concentration and enormous depth of flavour. There are glimmers of ripe Mirabelle plums and quince, a mineral note and a suggestion of acacia flowers. The texture is a perfect balance between density and finesse. The domaine owns two parcels, one in Aloxe and one in Pernand, with vines planted in four tranches between 1947 and 1981. Vincent comments, 'This has both finesse and purity – exactly the style I want to produce'.

Made from two plots, Le Charlemagne and En Charlemagne (1966, 1947), which were picked five days apart. Nine barrels in all. A clear mid lemon yellow. The bouquet shows class with reserve. The ripeness seems perfectly judged. Fresh apples, then a little wash of lemon, then the minerals of Corton-Charlemagne with exceptional persistence. There is such a strong tensile strength. Understated, lingering, classical wine.

The 2023 Corton-Charlemagne Grand Cru comes from 0.47ha split between Le Charlemagne and En Charlemagne that were picked five days apart, which Vincent said was crucial. The bouquet is intense: yellow plum, jasmine and hints of white truffle emerge with aeration. The palate is tensile and mineral-driven, with real tension and mineralité. It's a linear and strict style of Corton-Charlemagne with a pleasant bitterness on the finish. This is a very serious white Burgundy that will age with style.

There are nine barrels (some 2,700 bottles) of Vincent's debut 2023 Corton-Charlemagne Grand Cru, derived from half a hectare of holdings split between two blocks: a smaller one in En Charlemagne (next to Bize) and a larger one below the cross in Le Charlemagne itself. It's the former that seems to set the stylistic tone in this rendition, which offers up pretty aromas of pear, white flowers, hazelnuts and freshly baked bread, followed by a medium to full-bodied, satiny and textural palate that remains controlled, fine-boned and understated, in a pretty, elegant style.