2021 Volnay Clos des Ducs 1. Cru Marquis d'Angerville

Oak is evident, alongside notes of strawberry and vanilla on the nose. Fragrant, fresh and floral, with density and plushness on the palate. Some spice notes with sweet red berry fruit characters. Disarmingly approachable now, this will age effortlessly for several decades.

The Clos des Ducs and Champans were a little less affected by the frost, with 15 barrels of each made. Quite discreet at first, which is not unusual, then an explosion on the second half of the palate. One can really see the class of this terroir, offering subtly nuanced red fruit with raspberry and alpine strawberry. Guillaume d’Angerville reports that the Clos des Ducs is fattening up nicely during the elevage. Definitely the most complex wine.

92-94P+: The 2021 Volnay 1er Cru Clos des Ducs is more reserved than the Champans, unwinding to reveal scents of plums, wild berries, vine smoke, spices and sweet soil tones. Medium to full-bodied, ample and seamless, with powdery tannins and excellent depth at the core, it's bright and perfumed, concluding with a long, saline finish.

The 2021 Volnay Clos des Ducs 1er Cru, whose illustrious pedigree did not preclude it from frost damage, nevertheless has a distinctive nose that seems anomalous to d'Angerville's other crus: darker fruit, much more marine-influenced, to the point where you would imagine there might be stems (it is 100% de-stemmed like the other crus). The palate is very well structured, edgier than the Champans, more saline with modest grip towards the slightly saturnine finish. This will require 3-4 years in bottle. Excellent, somehow a bit…enigmatic.

(a monopole that measures 2.15 ha). A slightly more restrained nose grudgingly offers up its aromas of red currant, floral, spice and vaguely garrigue-like wisps. There is outstanding intensity to the slightly bigger and more powerful yet still gorgeously textured flavors that also exhibit a borderline pungent minerality that seems to build on the compact, serious and youthfully austere finish that displays stunningly good length. As is virtually always the case with Clos des Ducs, extended patience will absolutely be necessary.