96 point

Glass-staining ruby. Deeply pitched black raspberry, cherry-cola, cassis, olive and pungent floral qualities on the intensely perfumed, mineral- and spice-accented nose. Sappy and densely packed yet energetic as well, offering intense, smoke-laced kirsch, dark berry preserve, mocha, licorice and candied violet flavors and a hint of salty olive tapenade. Shows superb clarity, repeating floral and spice notes and emphatic mineral lift on a youthfully tannic finish that hangs on with superb, dark fruit-driven persistence. These vines are all Serine, originally from Domaine J.L. Chave, of Hermitage fame.

93 point

A concentrated, salty wine, with fig compote, plum, black licorice and crushed blackberry laced with roasted vanilla and cedar. Dark and savory, this is underscored by tar, smoked bacon and charred mesquite through the meaty, lengthy finish.

95 point

The 2020 Gigondas Les Roches is largely in the same mold, although it actually might have a tad more freshness. Ripe black and blue fruits, melted licorice, violets, and smoked meats give way to a full-bodied, rich, concentrated beauty that brings serious amounts of fruit and texture. I love its balance, it has terrific purity, and it’s a singular Gigondas I wish every reader could taste.