2019 Meursault 1. Cru Les Gouttes d'Or Henri Boillot Magnum

(from a holding of about .17 ha where the vines run from the top to the bottom of the vineyard). An interesting nose combines notes of viognier and white peach with those of matchstick and acacia blossom. The succulent, fleshy and intense medium weight plus flavors possess a lovely sense of underlying tension that also suffuses the beautifully long, youthfully austere and well-balanced finale. Note that this fine effort is firm enough to reward at least a decade of cellaring. 93/2029+

Aromas of pear, toasted brioche, white flowers and honeycomb introduce Boillot's 2019 Meursault 1er Cru Les Gouttes d'Or, a medium to full-bodied, ample and layered wine that's bright and precise, with more tension and grip than the demonstrative Poruzot.

Domaine Darnat vines from the early 1960s. There is an attractive toasty reduction, same primrose colour, the fruit better spaced out across the palate, with lovely sweeter fruit at the finish, but neither over ripe nor heavy. Very well balanced overall and persistent.