2017 Wachenheimer Altenburg 1. Cru Pfalz Dr. Bürklin-Wolf

Serious funk from wild ferment and long lees contact, but also concentrated yellow-fruit aromas and a long, juicy, polished finish. From biodynamically grown grapes. Drink or hold.

Piquant notes of apple and citrus pith mingle on the nose with crushed stone and struck flint, suggesting this interpretation of Altenburg will likely reflect the austerity and rigor of its gravelly soil and coolest of all Bürklin-Wolf microclimates. On top of that, I suspect this wine is suffering the most from its recent bottling of any Bürklin's vintage 2017 P.C.'s. Even so, the site's character is irrepressible. The firm palate musters more than enough primary juiciness to guarantee refreshment, and its piquant, pithy combination of hickory nut, lemon seed and stone carries into a mouthwateringly saline, formidably gripping, practically mouth-shaking finish. Give this time! (It already responds well to a good shaking.)