2017 Gaisböhl Monopol Grand Cru Pfalz Dr. Bürklin-Wolf Magnum

This pithily, pungently concentrated expression of its site features walnut oil, coriander seed and piquantly pit-tinged peach, but it exhibits a plush, subtly creamy texture that seductively envelops the aforementioned elements. The wine's alliance of invigorating pungency and piquancy with enveloping textural allure is not its only remarkable feature. It finishes with a sense of transparency to stony and herbal nuances that is uncanny for a wine of such palpable density and plushness. This will be fascinating stuff to follow once bottled. (The corresponding 2016, about which I waxed so enthusiastic in my last report, ended up not being bottled until December 2017; and nine months later its shimmering performance lives up to the top end of my billing.)