2017 Chevalier-Montrachet Grand Cru La Vougeraie Magnum

Sulfur and matchstick notes dominate the underlying fruit at present. Once again the palate feel of the slightly bigger bodied and more powerful flavors brim with both dry extract and minerality, indeed it's akin to rolling tiny stones around in the mouth, all wrapped in a gorgeously long and impeccably well-balanced finale. This is class in a glass and a wine that should also repay extended cellaring.

The 2017 Chevalier-Montrachet Grand Cru has a taut, stony bouquet with a subtle marine influence, hints of oyster shell, almost estuarine aromas, developing in the glass and complementing the citrus fruit. The palate is medium-bodied with a fine bead of acidity, commendable weight and density in the mouth and some lovely baked bread notes toward the finish. For me, it just needs more bite, more nervosité, a facet that might have been denied by the warmth of the growing season. Still, this should drink well over the next couple of decades. 2021 - 2038 .