2016 Puligny Mont. LesReferts 1.Cru Magnum Bachelet-Monnot

Pale primrose with a really elegant nose, with a very pretty touch of reduction. Really marries in extremely well. Lemon and lime notes, a little too yellow to be greengage, a lovely thread of concentration. Very good.

Pale, bright yellow. Pure, perfumed scents of white peach, anise, noble herbs and white pepper; the most classic of these '16s on the nose. Then sappy and dense but weightless, displaying more pungency and cut than the Referts. Not a fleshy style but the fine-grained, fully ripe flavors of peach and hazelnut boast excellent punch and clarity, not to mention finesse. The slowly building finish is thick and rich but firm-edged, even a bit youthfully tight (Marc Bachelet told me that he liked the reductive quality some of the estate's 2016s took on during their last months in tank). The Bachelets' vines are on the Meursault side of the appellation, just below La Truffière. Incidentally, the crop level here was 45 hectoliters per hectare in 2016, which Marc Bachelet said was the biggest crop in this premier cru since 2009.