2014 Siefersheim Heerkretz Riesling GG Øko Wagner Stempel

Extraordinarily forward fragrance with a delicate touch of truffle. Soft, lemony fruit complements intense spice and a creamy texture. Tightens up to finish dry. Serious concentration.

Picked ten days after the corresponding Höllberg because the fruit better resisted rot, this harbors a full gram less acidity and displays a radically different fruit profile. Over-wintered apple mingles with winter squash and caramelized rutabaga for a fascinatingly earthy, low-toned performance. Glossy, subtly creamy and expansive, this palpably extract-rich Riesling picks up welcome stimulation from lemon zest in its lingering finish, with an undertone of wet stone adding interest but a slight austerity.