2013 Riesling Trockenbeerenauslese Wachau Pichler-Krutzler

These 120 liters issued from botrytized as well as entirely air-dried bunches and berries picked out to ensure a dry Loibenberg (and nearly dry Rotenberg, from within Loibenberg) Riesling, but Pichler and Krutzler forgot to put "Loibenberg" on the label! An absolutely hauntingly gorgeous nose of floral honey with Mirabelle, quince and apricot preserves sets the tone for a creamy and, at 10% alcohol, delicately buoyant palate exhibiting impeccable balance, 14 grams of acidity and an amazing 73 grams of sugar-free dry extract, which manage to prevent the more than 200 grams of sugar from becoming in the least sticky or cloying. Vanilla, caramel and honey add confectionery richness to a luscious lingering finish but, happily, a vivacious stream of primary grapefruit and lime juiciness as well as saliva-drawing salinity follow along. - David Schildknecht.