2012 Paul Hobbs Cabernet Sauvignon Beckstoffer To Kalon Vd

A red with blackberry, black currant and rose leaf character. Full body, round and silky tannins and a long and intense finish. Wow. This is a long ride... Drink or hold.

Of the three Beckstoffer Vineyards, it's pretty much a joyride as to which one readers may prefer. The 2012 Cabernet Sauvignon Beckstoffer To Kalon Vineyard (readers may remember the 2002 merited a 100-point score) has a beautiful blueberry and blackberry fruit note, a hint of incense, charcoal, an opaque purple color, full-bodied opulence and again that first-growth quality, richness, complexity and intensity. I'm not sure this is as compelling as the 2002, but it's not far away. This is a magnificent, multi-dimensional, skyscraper-like Cabernet Sauvignon to drink over the next 15-20 years.

A seamless effort, rich and layered, with generous tiers of red and black fruits, spice and floral scents and a base of loamy earth- scented tannins. The finish offers cascading olive, herb and savory details that linger and gain depth while retaining subtlety. Drink now through 2028. From California.-J.L.