2012 Paul Hobbs Cabernet Sauvignon Beckstoffer Las Piedras

A full-throttle and rich red with round, soft tannins and a juicy, flavorful finish. Lots of fruit and intensity. Yet there is a tension and brightness. Reaches the limits of almost high-octane. Drink or hold.

Of the three Beckstoffer Vineyards, it's pretty much a joyride as to which one readers may prefer. The 2012 Cabernet Sauvignon Beckstoffer Las Piedras Vineyard of St. Helena is a knockout: a broad, opulent, round Cabernet fruitbomb with lots of cassis, incense, and blackberry. The wine is full-bodied, generously endowed with terrific purity, texture and length. This is a star and, believe it or not, it's come in well under 15% natural alcohol. This beauty can be drunk now or cellared for 15 or more years.