2010 Côte-Rôtie La Mouline Côte-Blonde Guigal

Smudgy, this is their La Tâche! Lots of heady appeal. Long with violets and liquorice on the nose and then lots of sinew on the finish. Extremely youthful. Great freshness on the finish.

As to three single parcel releases, I reviewed the 2010 Cote Rotie La Mouline earlier this year, but was more than happy to taste it again (lucky me) for this report. Incorporating a full 11% of Viognier and coming from the steep, terraced vines in the Cote Blonde lieu-dit, it sports a heavenly bouquet of spring flowers, incense, violets, cured meats and sweet cassis. Full-bodied, voluptuous and as seamless as they come, Syrah just doesn't get any more alluring, sexy or impressive. Give it 5- 6 years and drink bottles over the following 2 decades or more.

Vivid purple. Sexy aromas of blueberry liqueur, incense and vanillin oak, with a bright mineral overtone. Youthful black and blue fruit flavors show excellent depth and are sharpened by juicy acidity and a hint of Asian spices. Finishes with bitter chocolate and floral nuances, supple tannins and intense minerality. Elegant, as is typical for this bottling, but showing a surprising dark-fruit character that I don't usually expect from La Mouline.

Saturated ruby. An explosive, sharply delineated bouquet evokes fresh red and dark berries, Asian spices, candied flowers and incense, all lifted by a bright mineral overlay. Silky, sweet and utterly seamless on the palate, offering vibrant raspberry, violet pastille and spicecake flavors that spread out and gain depth with air. Manages to be both powerful and lithe, with superb back-end thrust and silky tannins shaping the endless floral finish. A drop-dead gorgeous, graceful and impeccably balanced example of Côte-Rôtie and one of the great wines of a truly great vintage. My daughter might have to skip a year of college so that I can buy a dozen cases of this; she'll understand when she grows up and has kids of her own. - Josh Raynolds.

This smolders from the start, with Turkish coffee and warm ganache notes out front, backed by steeped currant, warmed fig and Black Forest cake flavors. The well-structured finish is layered with charcoal and mesquite notes, revealing bay and chestnut details in the background. Offers terrific density, cut and range. Drapes like velvet despite the heft and structure. Best from 2017 through 2040. From France.-J.M.