2009 Volnay Les Caillerets 1. Cru Magnum Domaine Boillot

Full, bright ruby. Multidimensional nose offers black cherry, licorice, violet, bitter chocolate, mint and minerals. Hugely sweet but impeccably balanced, with great mid-palate purity and delineation to its explosive flavors of black fruits, licorice and crushed stone. Wonderfully fine-grained wine with an expanding finish of uncanny lift and length. This could be Exhibit A for those who maintain that the best 2009s from the Cote de Beaune are Cote de Nuits-like in their complexity, structure and class.