Delamotte og Salon - topkvalitet på hver sit niveau
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Salon "Le Mesnil"
Ingen over, ingen ved siden af! Dette er den første tanke en Champagnekender får ved navnet Salon. Dette er en af de sagnomspundne producenter i Champagne distriktet. Salon grundlagdes i 1921 af Eugène- Aimé Salon og fik i løbet af ingen tid et ry som ingen anden. Allerede i slutningen af 20'erne var det "huschampagne" på det legendariske Maxim's i Paris. Siden da har huset ikke set tilbage, fokus har været fuldstændig koncentreret på at opretholde og endda forbedre et legendarisk ry. Hemmeligheden bag dette ry er simpelt: der anvendes kun Chardonnaydruer, disse kommer kun fra Grand Cru-marker i Le Mesnil-sur-Oger, vinstokkene er over 40 år gamle, vinen laves kun i store champagneår og der er ofte kontakt mellem most og gær i 10 år!! Dette skaber en af verdens største vinøse oplevelser som alle bør opleve mindst en gang i sit liv. Salon fremstår lys gylden i glasset med en eksplosiv næse af tørrede frugter, hasselnødder og et strejf af vanillie. Smagen er præget af ren, sprød Chardonnay-frugt og den for Salon så kendte kraft i eftersmagen. "Montrachet tilsat bobler" har flere engelske journalister kaldt Salon...
+ læs mere
The 2002 Salon is utterly mesmerizing. I have tasted the 2002 six or seven times since its release and even during those two months or so the wine has developed quite dramatically, as some of the exuberance that was present at the outset has begun to recede, revealing the wine's intense underlying minerality. The 2002 is a huge, dense wine loaded with fruit. All of the classic Salon citrus, slate and floral notes are present, but it is the wine's superb textural richness that stands out most. Even though I have not followed my own advice, I suggest readers to plan on cellaring the 2002 for a good number of years. Because of its density and depth, I expect the 2002 will develop into a fairly exotic, voluptuous Champagne, within the context of Salon, of course. I also suggest keeping an eye out for the magnums, which are sure to disappear from the market pretty much the minute they arrive. 2017 - 2042.
(from magnum). As I commented the last time I reviewed this from 750 ml, I was mystified by the (relatively) poor showing as Salon is almost always excellent and often genuinely great. This example, though I underscore that this review is from magnum rather than 750 ml, displayed a quality and character that were literally worthy of being described as a night and day difference. So, the review from magnum format is: A cool and pure nose features notes of citrus, in particular lemon rind, along with plenty of yeast, green apple, floral and iodine elements. The refined and intense middle weight flavors are shaped by an ultra-fine mousse that contributes to the sense of subtlety and finesse, all wrapped in a fantastically long and deep finish. Moreover, this is absolutely nowhere near being ready as the '02 version of Salon is going to age for years, indeed my 2022+ estimate may very well be 5 years too early. Either way, this is an estimable vintage for one of my favorite wines. 2022+ .
Just a half-point difference from a perfect score might make you believe that this is a fast maturing Salon. Unfortunately, it will take almost 20 years before its full maturity is reached. In fact, my high score is probably quite rare since the wine is extremely young right now. Personally I have come to love the youthful expression where all instruments are playing their own tune separately. Mouthfeel is velvety and aromatically the walnut oil and the salty minerals are playing against the apple blossom. Here we have a purity and brightness that sharpens all senses. This magic wine reminds me a lot of my first meeting with the legendary 1982 Salon.
En længe ventet stjerne. Kan den blive andet i den årgang? Ringer ind med det samme om end ikke med vild hjertelig velkomst. Den taler i korte stærke sætninger. Fyndig og alligevel forknyt. Den lugter af rusten stenknuser i en grusgrav, i starten nærmest reduktiv, men skal lige have smidt sit harnisk. Så kommer limeskallen, æblesyren, tørv og mos, islay whisky og marcipandej, men på trods af den lange gærkontakt ingen lugt af fond eller Marmite. Smagen er decideret salt, jeg mærker nærmest samme svage bitterhed, som når man knuser Læsø Sydesalt mellem tænderne, urtet syre som i kvæller og skovsyre, tungen krøller lystigt, men der er ikke engang smag af bouillon endnu. Fremragende sublim om føje år.
The 2002 is a fabulous vintage, clearly on the same level as the great and structured 1996. Salon is a unique Blanc de Blancs because it ages so well. It's more like a top grand cru white Burgundy than a Champagne in structure with a great depth and density of fruit, bright linear backbone of acidity, and incredible length. The 2002 Salon is phenomenal quality. I tasted it in New York City yesterday. I was mesmerized. It is a subtle and intense Champagne that shows complex character of lilac, minerals, sliced lemon, apple, and white pepper. It is full body and dense yet racy and agile with a lightness and freshness. It has a gloriously long finish. It changes every moment in the glass. It has such clarity. It's magnificent to drink now, but shows great texture and structure for aging.
The nose is beautifully open - buttercream, bakery dough with a saline and flint character too. Impeccable but very subtle fruit. This is excellence done by degrees. There's a floral quality, and a smoky, reductive edge too. Even some honey. It's only just entering its drinking window. As is often said of the very best champagnes, this is wine first and sparkling second.
2002 Salon is nerve-shreddingly thrilling. This is a wine which is so fine and so tightly coiled that I wouldn't bet against it making it to its fiftieth birthday with ease. Didier compares it to the 1982 vintage. I think it is even finer - but he has the clear advantage of knowledge here. The colour (or lack of it) is incredible. There is a very faint emerald tinge which haunts the glass, but otherwise it is water white. Pale and shimmering in the glass with the tiniest bubbles I have ever seen, it seems ridiculous that this wine is already 12 years old when it looks like it was born yesterday. The nose is discreet with white meadow flower and delicate mirabelle notes. Didier pointed out hawthorn and may blossom details, too, which took me back to my childhood - bien noté, I will be using these terms in the future because they are so accurate and evocative. The whole package was sensational tight and nervy, with crazy minerality underpinning every sip. I found delicate green herb notes and faint mint along the way as the wine opened in the glass, but each time I went back to the glass the vitality and directness of the flavour shocked me. I was so moved that I ordered a case on the spot. I just had to have some in my cellar in spite of the terrifying price. I was the first person in the world to place an order, too - I wonder if the paperwork will say case No. 1! Only 62000 bottles and 5000 magnums were made which sounds like a fair few, but in real terms is only 6000 cases in old money. I was reeling from the experience of tasting and then drinking 2002 Salon hours after I had left this memorable breakfast launch. I still believe today that this wine is like nothing I have ever tasted before.
I sacrificed a bottle of the 2002 Brut Blanc de Blancs Le Mesnil from my own cellar to fill this gap in The Wine Advocate database and was interested to see that the wine has evolved a little since I last encountered it a couple of years ago. Subtle aromas of brioche, iodine and walnuts now inflect its bouquet of ripe lemon, green apple and crushed chalk, and on the palate, the wine is full-bodied, broad and powerful, with a fine mousse and considerable depth and dimension, concluding with a delicately chalky finish. This is an unusually ripe, muscular vintage of Salon, and my own palate tends to favor the brighter, more incisive vintages such as the 2007 or the 1996 at its best, but this is nonetheless a superb blanc de blancs that's maturing a touch faster than I expected.
Everything about Salon is geared toward long- ageing potential: Only the first pressing is used, fermented cold in stainless steel tanks, and malolactic fermentation is completely blocked. The most definitive and legendary expression of champagne's most confident, most commanding and arguably most age-worthy Côte des Blancs grand cru, Salon 2002 has been long anticipated. I first encountered it in Le Mesnil-sur-Oger in June, on release one of the most tightly coiled Salons, and already in August in Australia it's beginning to open and blossom. There is a ripeness to 2002 that builds impressive generosity, unwinding to reveal ginger, grapefruit, white cherries, even anise, fig and tangello. Yet at every moment pure and focused, elegant and impeccably honed, with backward restraint of subtle grilled toast reduction and layers of fine, subtle, salty minerality. This is a vintage of effortless balance and enduring longevity. Just 60,000 bottles will be released over three years. Drink:2022-2042.
The 35th and most recent vintage of Salon since the house was founded in 1905 is memorable and magnificent. Made only from Chardonnay grown in the Grand Cru village of Le Mesnil-sur-Oger, it combines intense minerality, a crisp textured core and the beginnings of maturity. The depths of this wine, with its layers of fruit and steeliness, are superb. Even after 12 years, it still needs to age further. Drink from 2018.
Ethereal, with a refined, delicate mousse and a haunting array of flavors, from the vein of chalky minerality to ripe pastry fruit to a skein of spice and richer accents of spun honey, creamed almond and fleur de sel. The finely meshed acidity is racy and persistent, pushing the flavor range on the long, lacy finish. Lovely. Drink now through 2032. -A.N.
SALON - DELAMOTTE
Salon er synonymt med sjældenhed og topkvalitet, der er kun lavet 43 årgange siden 1921, et internationalt investeringsobjekt. 2 x 100P Decanter.