100 point

A perfect, aged blanc de blancs with superb aromas of chalk, pie crust, limes and green apples with buttered popcorn, jasmine and hints of green tobacco. Medium-bodied, this has a compacted palate of dense dried fruit, turning to caramel and pie crust with an energized, vivid finish. Goes on for a minute. Aged almost 25 years on the lees. Released July 24, 2024. Drink now. Only 4,000 bottles made.

99 point

At a mesmerising 28 years of age, this might go down as the latest first (official) release of a champagne vintage. There is still a brightness of radiant straw to its medium yellow hue, astonishingly luminous for such grand old age. The palate presents a captivating journey that encapsulates its slow passage through almost three decades. This is a cuvée to experience in the absence of any distractions, because you do not want to miss any moment of its thrilling dips and swoops as it reveals its multifaceted dimensions for thirty seconds after you swallow. Some wines reveal their grandeur in undeviating linearity, but here the ride is all about thrilling acceleration and breathtaking turns and swoops! The energy of the greatest crus of the Cote des Blancs sustains purity astonishingly vibrant at this age, still reminiscent of grapefruit, lemon, apple and fig, while the voluptuous personality of Charles is declared in the most enticing glacé pear, crème brûlée and freshly churned butter. Then subtle, grand depth of tertiary arises in white truffle, butter croissant, pipe smoke, candle wax and layers of glorious spice. The finish delivers tremendous concentration true to the fabled 1996 season, presented with persistence and drive. Glittering chalk minerality is energised by enduring acidity, but more than anything it is the glossy, creamy, waxy texture of Charles heightened in grand old age by almost a quarter century on lees that defines its unique magnificence. The house has been exceedingly disciplined in holding off 28 years for its release, finally unleashing it in a mesmerising moment in its grand arc of evolution, which it shows every promise of confidently holding for at least a few more years, without demanding any further age.

93 point

In contrast to the substantial production of the 1995 rendition, the 1996 Blanc de Blancs Blanc des Millénaires was made in relatively modest quantities, which is perhaps fortunately so, as it does not quite match the balance of its predecessor. The wine wafts from the glass with aromas of Meyer lemon, dried apricot and praline, mingled with notes of clear honey and freshly baked bread. Medium-bodied and incisive, the palate is built around a rich core of fruit underpinned by trenchant acidity that propels the wine to a long, electric finish. This is another wine from this heralded vintage that displays to considerable effect the year's distinctive high-acid profile. This sample was disgorged in 2021 with a dosage of nine grams per liter.